Today the roof rack was done, had some bars welded in the back and a wind deflector in the front.
I also installed the led bar (aliexpress, under 100 euro wiring included). Button also from aliexpress, cheap. Will have to find another place for it, I don't like it there.
I hid the wires by the windshield and I used hot glue to keep the wire in place on the roof gutter.
Today I changed the front speakers, the sound is much better, I can turn it up to max. Could use a little more volume but it's fine as it is, 99% of the time the volume is low. When the weather will be warmer, I will put some STP, front and back.
And since I took the door panels out, I installed the heated mirror glass. Inspiration from this forum, it wasn't very hard. Should the "heat" sign on the glass be illuminated? Mine isn't... but they do heat up, so it's fine.
I ordered aluminum pipe and bends, 32mm (will go inside the roof rack).
Today I got some more "aliexpress tuning", a small antena (I don't listen to radio) and some sun glass holders.
Alles anzeigenAnd 2 days ago I installed the roof rack... unfortunately, the old owner cut the front and back parts, to make it like a platform. At about 80-90km/h it vibrates and rezonates really hard. Over and under that speed, no problem. I'll have to figure out how to fix this.
#1
Search Pictures of the original look of the roof rack and rebuilt the missing parts.
#2
After i installed my extra high beam light bar under my roof rack, i had the same problems!
My fix was using now higher mounting feets for the roof rack, so that the difference between the roof and the roof rack is now 4 cm higher.
#1 yes, that's what I'm planning, I'm going today to a welding shop to see what they think. Unfortunately it's aluminum (yes, it's light), so finding the right pipe is going to be more difficult. This is how it looked like originally
#2 I also have a light bar I want to install on the roof rack. It's curbed and slim, my idea was to incorporate it somehow in the front wind deflector of the roof rack.
I got some new "oem like" ashtrays.
And 2 days ago I installed the roof rack... unfortunately, the old owner cut the front and back parts, to make it like a platform. At about 80-90km/h it vibrates and rezonates really hard. Over and under that speed, no problem. I'll have to figure out how to fix this.
Wind/rain protectors, they are quite useful. And a patch for the hole I made when installing the armrest.
Finished the trunk box today
On Saturday I installed the underbody protections.
And yesterday I made a trunk box. I need to get some more glue for the carpet but it's a 10 minutes job. I also put some STP on the trunk floor, for noise and vibration.
Bosch from an older car I had 
No relay, it already has one from the factory and this ones are not that powerful to require another one.
Last evening I changed the annoying little horn with 2 x Bosch, now it sounds like a full size car :))
In the picture above I would say incorrectly installed, the fender flares must be under the original ones.
You might be right... it was late and I didn't think about that. First time I get some time, I'll try it under the original ones, see how it fits.
Alles anzeigenThe rubber protection is a great idea! Will also get that from uncle Ali.
Wind noise is probably not an issue with our little cubes...
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The protective rubber is a great idea!
I'll get this from Uncle Ali too.
Wind noise is probably not an issue with our little cubes...
I'm not sure how the adhesive will last... but there is always superglue
It's almost impossible to get them in Western Europe. I got them from Moldova, since I'm close to it, with the help of a friend of a friend who lives there.
They cost almost 200 euros, about half the price of what you find in EU. They fit 99% ok, I'm pleased with them. 215/75/15 doesn't rub, so all good here.
Installed some more "aliexpress tuning" today.
Heat/noise protection for the engine hood, easy.
Some rubber protection for the doors, because my son alreay hit the drivers door. Twice.
And some magnetic caps for the door, just to hide the chrome.
As for the armrest... well, I screwed up. First time I installed it, seemed ok, put everything in place... too high. I had already cut the textile from the seat, after moving the armrest lower now I have a hole. I'll have to patch it up.
Hi Geo ZGA,
you are preparing the Jimny for a longer friendship, looks fine!
Are those inner wheel arch protectors the original ones from Suzuki? Where did you purchase them and at what costs?
Hi TBert. They are made in Russia, I got them from Moldova, someone helped me get them (friend of a friend). The cost was a little under 200 euro, compared to the ones from EU at 4-500 euro they are quite cheap. The only problem is getting them in the EU, for me it was easier because I'm close.
I used the original pins, for the front you can't use the original protectors anymore and I need to transfer the small rubber part that is attached to them. For the back it's easy, since Suzuki didn't fit any :)) They also come with some pins.
https://enter.online/produse-auto/carenaje-pentru-roata?filter=298-98234_299-97862
A big thank you to klowo, who helped me with the codes for the russian ones.
I also got 4 (2 front, 2 back) steel underbody protectors at about 180 euro, this were the last ones he found and only sold as a set. I'll see when I can install them.
Yesterday I did some rustproofing, 3m bedliner, 3m cavity wax, chassis plugs and inner wheel arch protectors.
Alles anzeigenSo the conclusion would be that I do need extended Panhard rods, for 50mm lift? Because both seller said I don't need it... but from what I know, it would be a slight difference of 3-4mm when extended.
The Problem is the rear axle!
At the front axle you can correct caster ane track, but at the rear you can't correct caster and track in the way you can do it at the front.
so there a two ways to correct caster and track.
- Brackets for lowering the mounting points of the Panhardstab
- Adjustable Panhard rods
The reason why there must be something done by using a lift kit +40 mm or higher, is the rear axle is changing their position, so if you would look on the axles from above with a clock under the axles it must be 9 to 3, when there is no lift kit, with lift kit the clock will be 10 to 4 or 8 to 2.
But first install your lift kit and check if the cube is still running straight or going to the left or right!
When the cube is running to one side, than you can choose new brackets or the adjustable Panhard rods.
For the rear I can get a bracket for 40-50 euro. If I also need it for the front, that means adjustable rods, 200-250 euro. Still ok.
So the conclusion would be that I do need extended Panhard rods, for 50mm lift? Because both seller said I don't need it... but from what I know, it would be a slight difference of 3-4mm when extended.
If it offends people, you can delete them (I can still see them) and I'll try not to post pictures of it... it's not something to be ashamed of, nothing related to war crimes, it's just some "guy" I admire for his honour, tactics and leadership. He gained fame in my country, figthing against my people but I still admire him.
I also asked the seller for the 1000 ones... he said just longer brake lines, so I can't count on his expertise. 100% sure I also need the front axle correction bushings, at least. I wasn't sure about the Panhards.
