Dear All,
I would highly appreciate your recommendation regarding the Subject. I am a bit lost in the internet search...and highly concerned about the high prices I am seeing for... 
What is in your opinion the best quality/price underride plates on the market and what is your experince with what you are using?
Thanks,
C
Was für Gelände willst du denn befahren?
Denn es gibt den Unterfahrschutz (UFS) in den Varianten aus Stahl und Alu!
Für leichtes Gelände kann man den UFS aus Alu verwenden, bei schwerem Gelände sollte der UFS besser aus Stahl, da stabiler, sein.
Beim Jimny JB74 (GJ / 4-Sitzer & HJ / 2-Sitzer-Nutzfahrzeug) sollte man auf jeden Fall einen VTG-UFS haben, an den Differentialen einen UFS zu haben ist für schweres Gelände auch von Vorteil!
Wichtig ist jedoch folgendes!
Es gibt verschiedene Anbieter für den UFS, aber die Produkte sind nicht kompatibel!
Ich meine da zum Beispiel den VTG-UFS von Horntools und die Längslenker-Protektoren von JimnyBits oder Trekfinder.
Also solltest du, wenn du mehrere UFS-Komponenten anbringen willst, diese alle von einer Marke kaufen.
Now the english Translation by Google:
What kind of terrain do you want to drive on?
Because the underrun protection (UFS) is available in steel and aluminum versions!
For light terrain you can use the UFS made of aluminum, for heavy terrain it is better to use the UFS made of steel as it is more stable.
With the Jimny JB74 (GJ / 4-seater & HJ / 2-seater commercial vehicle) you should definitely have a VTG
Having UFS, having a UFS on the differentials is also an advantage for difficult terrain!
However, the following is important!
There are different providers for the UFS, but the products are not compatible!
For example, I'm referring to the VTG-UFS from Horntools and the trailing arm protectors from JimnyBits or Trekfinder.
So you should, if you want to attach multiple UFS components, buy them all from one brand.
For JB74 I would recommend shock and radius arm skid plates as well as transfer case and fuel filter skid plates.
In general you can use the better quality aluminum ones for softer terrain, but will need steel if you plan on harder terrain (rock crawling) contact, especially where there is quite some kinetic energy involved (drops off rocks).
Guard plates for differential pumpkins are trading clearance for protection. Most pumpkins are built strong enough to not need them if you drive carefully. If you plan to jump and race the Jimny however, you will most certainly need them (among other substantial mods).
Jimnybits and Masterforest are good sources for checking out the different mounting (and visual) styles. Horntools has a wider range from more visual to functional protection mods.
Thank you, very helpfull!! In my mind the aluminium vs steel was mostly regarding the weight difference, neverthelless both of you are making very good points. Will let you know the outcome!
PS:- please feel free to write in the native language, I use translation tools ...until I will figure out der,die, das...could be a while 
Thanks for your note, that you will use translator when we answer in german!
This means for some other here, that they can write in german, when they don't now how to use translator.
Thank you, very helpfull!! In my mind the aluminium vs steel was mostly regarding the weight difference, neverthelless both of you are making very good points. Will let you know the outcome!
PS:- please feel free to write in the native language, I use translation tools ...until I will figure out der,die, das...could be a while
Lower quality aluminum (thinner sheets) will be way lighter and more of a sticks and brush guard. They might protect your vehicle against more serious contact maybe once or twice before they break (tensile strength is not that great).
Higher quality aluminum will make up for the relatively narrow elastic deformation regime of the material with its high rigidity.
Steel has a way wider elastic deformation regime and even when you get into the plastic deformation regime the likelihood of steel actually cracking is way lower.
Another note on corrosion: Road salt will corroded aluminum fairly fast as well, but is harder to spot (pretty much white rust). All aluminum will be anodized from the factory to protect against corrosion, but the anodized layer is pretty thin. Once scratched aluminum has to be taken care off in a similar way as steel to avoid significant weakening of its tensile strength.
Sorry for nerding out on you 😂.
tl;dr go with high quality aluminum if you don't mind the higher price tag (compared to steel) and are not anywhere near rocky terrain.
I use Jimnybits steel skid plates on a light rock crawling build, because they are the toughest stuff I could find.
Thanks, keep nerding things out...thats the onlz thing which make sense to me 
. Altough I dont plan an extereme offorad, sometimes it take a second of not paying attention and the right rock at place in the wrong spot...so I will go for steel.
PS:- cannot/dont know how to upload photos to this post.
For the pictures you need a picturehoster, like picr.de, imagebanana or someone else.
How to present the pictures then in this forum here Bilder in die Beiträge einbinden is a how to in german language with picture, tha shows how it goes.
PS:- cannot/dont know how to upload photos to this post.
For the pictures you need a picturehoster, like picr.de, imagebanana or someone else.
How to present the pictures then in this forum here Bilder in die Beiträge einbinden is a how to in german language with picture, tha shows how it goes.
Thanks, waiting for my picr.de account to be validated ...
1)For the arm radius guards the supllier is reccomending realingment of the wheels, after installation. Is this really necessary?
I installed those as well and did not need wheel alignment after.
2)For the rear axle dif protection i need to remove the two nuts&bolts marked with red (bottom two dif nuts and bolts). Should I expect a lot of oil leakage which might require refill? should I also consider replacing the gasket?
Technically you should replace the gasket. However you can probably get away with not doing that (at your own risk). Probably would not try that when the oil is warm.
1)For the arm radius guards the supllier is reccomending realingment of the wheels, after installation. Is this really necessary?
I installed those as well and did not need wheel alignment after.
2)For the rear axle dif protection i need to remove the two nuts&bolts marked with red (bottom two dif nuts and bolts). Should I expect a lot of oil leakage which might require refill? should I also consider replacing the gasket?
Technically you should replace the gasket. However you can probably get away with not doing that (at your own risk). Probably would not try that when the oil is warm.
Thank you josh. Do you happen to know the torque momment for the rear dif bolts? As of know I was not eable to buy the detail reparir manual in english...
After checking my copy of the repair manual i can tell you the torque is 30 Nm!
General torque specs can be found here: https://teamghettoracing.com/v…ervicing/torque-settings/
